5 of the Best... Athens!

The city of Athens is not only the capital and largest city of the Mediterranean country of Greece - it is geographically, politically, historically, culturally and spiritually... the heart of Greece and the Greek people. It's long history draws in tourists from all around the world - keen to marvel at the splendours of Ancient Greece, and also to experience the city's vibrant and welcoming atmosphere that it beholds today.

Athens is, and always will be, my favourite city in the world. That's just my opinion, of course, and it's a sentimental one I admit; me and my dear Mother's first European 'city break' together, back in March 2018, was to this historic city. I've always longed to return, and in May 2023, that reality came true as I visited with some friends. It was such a privilege to be back and soak in the city's best sites again - I'm very grateful.

I could ramble for a long time about why I love this city, however in this article I would like to share my '5 of the best' top sites to experience in Athens today. Part of what makes Athens so special in my opinion is the contrast between the city's historic sites (gleaming historic treasures) and the city streets (so often covered in graffiti; some of which is stunning - some not so!). Graffiti stops when you enter a historic site - this is symbolic of the respect shown for their ancestors... of which, is such a beautiful thing.

Now, as hard as it was to decide just five (!)...

Here is '5 of the best...Athens!' - with some pictures from my recent visit:

1) The Temple of Hephaestus

Back in Ancient Greece, the heart of the city of Athens was in the valley below the Acropolis, in the area known today as the Ancient Agora. Translated, 'agora' literally means a place to gather - in Ancient Greece the agora was a public space with markets and trade. Nowadays, this historic valley is, whilst atmospheric - mostly ruins. However, the exceptions to this are the remarkably reconstructed Stoa of Attalos (roofed colonnade, nowadays home to an interesting museum too) and the stunning Temple of Hephaestus. This is the best preserved temple in Athens, and whilst it is smaller than the famous Parthenon on the Athenian Acropolis, it is so well intact that it warrants a place in my '5 of the Best'!

Hephaestus was the blacksmith god, and he was one of the 12 most important Greek sacred deities (known as the Olympians) that were believed to reside at Mount Olympus. For the Greeks in ancient times, keeping the gods 'on their side' as it were - was of primary importance. For example, Hephaestus was the 'blacksmith god' - thus he was beloved by people in the manufacturing trades. Being the god of metalworking, sculpture and fire, he was had an importance to all people. He was also unique because of his lameness (he had a limp) - this was not something any other deities were known to have. His temple is made from Pentelic marble and its east side looks out over the valley of the agora valley. Its 31 surrounding Doric style columns are so well preserved, and therefore Hephaestus's temple is a highlight of Ancient Greece's heritage in Athens today.

2) The Panathenaic Stadium

Whether a sports fan or not, the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens is a fascinating site to experience the city's Olympic heritage first hand. The Olympic Games of today are known to have their roots in Ancient Greece - with the modern event reviving the ethos of the event which was founded in this land. It was back in 776 BC, when at Olympia in the Peloponnese (a peninsula west of Athens), the first Olympic Games took place - in a religious festival honouring Zeus (the 'King of the Gods'). Even back over 2,500 years ago, the Olympics were scheduled for every four years - a tradition that is still in use to this day.

The Olympic Games was held for over 1,000 years, up until 393 AD when Roman Emperor Theodosius decreed an end to all cult practices of their conquered lands. This happened because the Roman Empire turned to Christianity in 313 AD, as opposed to previously following wholeheartedly the same deities as the Greeks (albeit with different names!) Because of this psyche switch, the Ancient Greeks Olympic Games would be no more. However, in 1894, Athens was chosen unanimously to host the first modern Olympic Games... whereby the Panathenaic Stadium took centre stage!

The Panathenaic Stadium in Athens was initially built to host the Panathenaic Games in the 4th century BC, however it wasn't built on the grand scale we see today until Herodes Atticus used Pentellic marble, alike the aforementioned temple, in the 2nd century AD during the Roman era. Naturally, it needed renovation to restore it to the Roman condition for the 1894 inaugural Modern Olympics. 45,000 can today pack this stadium, and in 2004 when the Olympics returned to Athens, it was used for the finishing line of the marathon race. It's a great sight to behold visiting the Panathenaic Stadium today, not only to sit in the stands and run around the track a bit (!) - but to visit the exhibition at the back of the tunnel, whereby posters from the Modern Olympic Games and some interesting Olympic historical pieces are well displayed.

3) The Academy of Athens

Whilst not mentioned heavily in many guidebooks in Athens, the Academy building, along with the National Library and University on Panespistiou Street, make up a remarkable trilogy of neoclassical buildings to admire. Of the three - the Academy is my favourite building. The patron deity of the city, Athena, stands proud high above the city on a large Ionic column. The goddess of wisdom and war is watching over the city, in a metaphor for how despite the pinnacle of Ancient Greece being over 2,000 years ago, she's still protecting the city today.

The three buildings transport you back to what the city would have looked like in its prime. They are complete buildings, and my interpretation of what Athens would have looked like would have seen many buildings of this like, in the heart of the aforementioned agora for example. With that said, this trio of buildings were actually constructed in the 19th century, but of course built with respect and love for their ancestors culture in mind (hence the statue of Athena for example!). The colour on the columns and portico ceilings is stunning to see, especially because the ruins left of ancient buildings are without colour due to years of wear.

The Academy building is on the far right of the 'Athenian Trilogy'. This area is considered a real intellectual hot-spot of the city of course, and this is epitomised with statues to two of the great thinkers from antiquity (Plato and Socrates), flanking the staircase. Along with Athena on the left column, Apollo (the sun god), rises high above the traffic below, to the right of the main building. Built between 1859 and 1885, the Academy building certainly preserves the glory of the Greek golden age in its design and style of construction.

4) Syntagma Square and the Evzones

One of my personal highlights from a trip to Athens, is witnessing the exquisite Evzones (Guards) at Syntagma Square. This is a unique experience in comparison to the other four in my '5 of the Best', because whilst the Greek Parliament architecture is nice to admire and photograph, this highlight is not focused on 'a building'; it's focused on experiencing the 'Changing of the Guard' live. 'Syntagma' translates to 'Constitution', so this part of the city has a key role in the modern metropolis. The Evzones stand guard in the front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and are clad in their unique uniform. The story of modern Greece and national pride comes very much from their independence that was attained following occupation from the Ottoman Empire, and the Evzones uniform is inspired by what was worn by the 'Klephts' (of whom fought against the occupation from the Ottomans).

On the 25th March, Greeks annually celebrate their independence. In the year 1832, with the Treaty of Constantinople, Greece's freedom was recognised. The uniform of the Evzones pays homage to the years of Ottoman rule, with the 400 year period represented with the 400 pleats on their skirts. The Evzones today change ever hour, five minutes before the hour whereby the new guards will be in position on the hour. Half way between, the two guards change sides as well. If you are in Athens on the Sunday though, a particularly special experience is the far more elaborate ceremony that takes place at 11 a.m. There's a band and a large group of Evzones, which is a fantastic experience to witness. Two guards replace the two current guards as usual whilst the platoon stand watch. The Evzones perform in synchrony, and move very slow - it's tremendously focused and detailed work. Much admiration and respect to the Evzones!

5) The Athenian Acropolis

Unsurprisingly, of course, the city's most iconic site (the Acropolis), completes my '5 of the Best' list from Athens. It is one of the most most famous historic remains in the world, and understandably is top of the vast majority of tourists' lists to visit whilst in Athens. Meaning 'high city', lots of places actually have an 'acropolis' - but there's none more famous than the Acropolis of Athens. It rises high above the sprawling metropolis that we see today and is a lasting testament to the 'Golden Age' of Greek culture. I could write an entire essay about this hilltop site, and of course authors have written entire books focused on the Acropolis (!), so to summarise why this site is so special (?) - is certainly a challenge. I will endeavour to do so...

Constructed during the second half of the 5th century BC, the Acropolis was built very much with the Ancient Greeks respect for their sacred deities in mind. The patron goddess of the city is Athena (mentioned earlier), and this site was built very much with respect to her in mind. The Parthenon, the most famous building on the limestone plateau, would have had a huge statue (made from gold and ivory) of Athena Parthenos inside the temple. Pheidias was the architect who led the transformation of this sacred rock, backed by the legendary Athenian statesman Pericles. Whilst it was sacred to Athena, the Parthenon was believed to have been used as a treasury. Nowadays a tourist site, the Parthenon over the years has been used (and transformed into) a Byzantine and Roman Catholic place of worship, a mosque for Muslims, and even a place to store ammunition. It was during the war with the Venetians, that the Ottomans stored ammunition here - thus causing an explosion in 1687 which led to much of the ruin. Paradoxically though, during War for Independence, the Greeks utilised the Parthenon building as an army barracks - aiding the victorious result in this 1821-1832 war. The Parthenon's history is certainly long and varied!

It's not just the Parthenon on the Acropolis to admire though. On the south slope of the rock, tourists can admire the Theatre of Dionysus (god of wine and ecstasy) and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Once you face the west side of the rock and the staircase leading up to the plateau, you walk through the Propylaea, of which is a grand entrance way. The Panathenaic Way, which you can see down at the agora too, leads all the way from the heart of the city there, right up to the sacred Acropolis through the Propylaea. Climbing the entrance stairs, on the right is the Temple of Athena Nike. Of course, being up on the rock provides amazing city views, and you can look to the north-west to see the Temple of Hephaestus that was mentioned earlier, whilst looking out to the sightly to the south on the eastern side of the rock - you can look down on Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus (other splendid historic ruins in the city - well worth visiting too!) On the north side of the Acropolis is the Erechtheion, and on the south-western side of this building, is the Porch of the Caryatids. These are a beloved set of six maidens, of which are replicas, with the originals housed in the Acropolis Museum (which is located to the south of the Acropolis site). Also of note, west of the Erechtheion, is Athena's Olive Tree, with legend saying it was planted by Athena herself.

By Aaron Woodruff,

Lessons and Joys of Travel,

12/05/2023