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Writer's pictureAaron Woodruff

5 of the Best... Copenhagen

Updated: Oct 7

Welcome to the latest edition of '5 of the Best...' - this time focusing on the Danish capital city: Copenhagen. Located in the east of the region known as Zealand, 'København' (as written in Danish) is a jewel in the crown of the Scandinavian countries. Home to stunning architecture, royal regalia, beautiful canals, vast green spaces, and many historic sights - Copenhagen is a relatively compact city that's a joy to explore on foot. The superb Metro system is useful too for saving time commuting into the city, whilst it even serves as a superb link direct to the international airport! In this article, I've chosen five of the best places to visit in '5 of the Best... Copenhagen'. I hope it proves an interesting and informative read; if you are planning to visit and have any questions about visiting this city - please feel free to reach out - it would be a pleasure to help you plan your adventure to Copenhagen. As they say in Denmark... "Tak!" (Thanks!).

 

1) The Little Mermaid

Inspired by the famous Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale, the beautiful Little Mermaid sculpture has become one of Copenhagen's most treasured attractions - adored by locals and tourists alike. Perched on some rocks by the promenade by Langelinie Pier, this bronze and granite construction has survived two world wars after being unveiled in 1913 (the year prior to World War 1).

The poor mermaid has actually lost her head twice though, and even seen her arm removed from mindless acts of vandalism (!), but she has been lovingly restored each time and put back in her rightful place. I remember on the canal-boat tour I took on my last day in the city during my visit in September, the tour-guide explained how revered she is by the Danes. He explained that she was once loaned to Shanghai, but to re-assure the locals the city placed a screen in her place which live-streamed footage of the Little Mermaid whilst she was on display in the Far East!


I really enjoyed taking some time out here - finding a place a bit out of the way to stand and 'people-watch' as tourists come and go at this iconic sight. It gave me a chance to admire the Little Mermaid and the commotion of people in front of her... a tourist slipped in the water trying to get a bit close via some stepping-stones - I am sure the mermaid, alike the people who seen the mishap - had a little giggle to herself! The Little Mermaid was actually a gift to Copenhagen from Danish brewer Carl Jacobson (the son of the founder of 'Carlsberg'); commissioned in 1909, it took four years before completion, thanks to the work of Edvard Erikson who designed 'Den lille Havfrue' (name in Danish). Nearby to the Little Mermaid is the 'Kastellet', which is one of the best-preserved fortresses in Europe. Also known as 'the Citadel', the Kastellet is a vast place with great views, and it has a path along the entire ramparts which acts as a nice 360°C 'star-shaped' route to follow.

 

2) Museum of Danish Resistance

Second up in '5 of the Best... Copenhagen', is the wonderfully informative Museum of Danish Resistance, known as 'Frihedsmuseet' in Danish. Located just south of the Little Mermaid and the adjacent Kastellet, the Museum of Danish Resistance is built in 'Churchillparken' (Churchill Park, named after Britain's famous World War 2 Prime Minister: Sir Winston Churchill). The Museum is a fascinating insight into Denmark during the dark days of World War 2, when this land north of Germany was very much under the thumb of the warmongering Nazi Party. Frihedsmuseet looks relatively small from the outside, however that's because bar the entrance floor and cafeteria above, the museum actually sees you go underground to immerse yourself in this era of history. The story is superbly laid out, following the chronological events of World War 2 throughout Europe and the world, whilst also taking a deep-dive into the lives of Danish people during occupation.

I learnt that Denmark's role was very unique during this conflict; they were stuck geographically right by Germany, who after invading Poland, had their sights stretched much further afield. Denmark was understandably not able to put up a fight due to the might of Hitler's army, but the Danish people were able to maintain a 'sovereignty of sorts' - if they basically did exactly as told by the ruling elite in Berlin. There's a lot more to it than that, of course, but the Danish spirit was ever-present throughout this period of occupation and hopes of freedom again were always there. Therefore, at great personal risk if caught by the Germans, there were ways in which crucial intelligence was smuggled out of Denmark, often via their Scandinavian neighbour Sweden, to the resistance of the Allied forces, led by Great Britain, the Untied States and the Soviet Union.

As a lover of history, I found this Danish perspective intriguing, and I left with a wholehearted sense of respect for the Danish people's courage during World War 2. When I saw the British, American and Soviet flags, triumphantly displayed alongside the Danish flag, it certainly gave me a lump in my throat; I could imagine the relief come VE (Victory in Europe) Day, and taking a stroll around Churchillparken afterwards, made me very humbled and proud as a British person. There's a lot of our history that is not positive, but the sacrifice of the heroic servicemen and women of the Allied forces, who sacrificed so much to defeat the tyrannical Nazis, is certainly one of our finest hours as a nation. I saw the Danish respect for Churchill, and it's an alliance of mutual respect to this day. I would highly recommend visiting the Museum of Danish Resistance as it offers a very unique experience compared to the other attractions on offer whilst in the capital city of Copenhagen.


*Hyperlink to the official website for the Museum of Danish Resistance:

 

3) Rosenborg Castle

Next to be chosen for this article, is the splendid 'Rosenborg Slot' (Castle). This Dutch-Renaissance style brick palace was built between 1606 and 1624, and stands today as an incredible piece of history that's home to some dazzling crown jewels. It was built for Christian IV, and today you can purchase an entrance ticket to explore the different levels of the castle and the underground Treasury. The floors offer a chance to see the incredible interior decor of the 24 royal rooms, whilst also providing glimpses of the picturesque gardens which surround this landmark. Rosenberg Castle was a royal residence until the early 18th century, when the head of state moved to a new palace at Frederiksberg. Following this, the early 19th century saw Rosenborg open its doors to the public. Classed as a museum today, this remains one of the most popular attractions in Copenhagen; the royal regalia in the Treasury is a big pull as it provides a glimpse of the monarchy's riches.

Guarded by armed guards, visiting here reminded me of the Tower of London: both are home to crown jewels to this day, both used to be home to the royal family, and both are remarkably preserved architectural treasures of history. You are allowed to respectfully take pictures throughout Rosenborg - even of the crown jewels (unlike London!). There's useful pamphlets available to pick-up which provides a very detailed insight into the artwork that you see located throughout the complex - there's many portraits of different people throughout Danish history. Of particular note as a personal highlight, was the incredible Rosenborg Tapestries located in the Great Hall. There are many tapestries in incredible detail which depict the Scanian War (1657-1658) between the Danish and Swedish. The tapestries were produced in the late 17th century and are in superb condition to this day - they prove a great historical representation of naval conflict. Other pieces that are popular with visitors up in the Great Hall, are the silver lions, which guard royal thrones.

*Official website for Rosenborg Castle: https://www.kongernessamling.dk/en/rosenborg/

 

4) Amalienborg Palace and the 'Marmokirken'

It's fitting after the royal regalia of Rosenborg, to move east across the city, to Amalienborg Palace - the current home to King Frederik X (following Queen Marghrethe's abdication in January 2024). Amalienborg's central courtyard ('Amalienborg Slotsplads' in Danish) offers a fine view of four identical looking facades, which together make up the Amalienborg Palace complex. Standing centrally in the courtyard, is a large equestrian statue of Frederik V; the statue weighs 22 ton and was unveiled back in 1771. I personally didn't visit the inside of Amalienborg as I was opted for other sights to see after experiencing Rosenborg, however you can visit the Amalienborg Museum via a combined entry ticket with Rosenborg if you wish to visit both. If Rosenborg was Copenhagen's Tower of London, then Amalienborg would be Buckingham Palace! The interior of Amalienborg showcases parts of the royal residence and an exhibition about the Danish monarchy.

Located a few minutes walk westerly from Amalienborg, is the stunning dome of the 'Marmokirken' (meaning 'Marble Church'), which rises high in the Copenhagen skyline. I very much enjoyed my visit to the Marmokirken - it is a beautiful building and taking some time out inside this place of worship for some quiet reflection was a beautiful experience. Looking upwards at the interior of the huge dome, is simply spectacular; it reminded me of the domes of Saint Paul's and Saint Peter's in London and Rome respectively... it's the largest church dome in all of Scandinavia. The Marble Church is also known as 'Frederik's Church'. The grandiose Marmokirken was completed in 1894, so for over a century it has been watching over the Danish capital. Talking of 'watching over', the guards at Amalienborg Palace are a constant that's been protecting the royal family for centuries.

Seeing the 'Changing of the Guard' live, is a timeless experience, and one which I'd very much recommend whilst in Copenhagen. Taking place daily at midday, the pomp and pageantry of the royal guards is very much on display for the public. Huge crowds gather in the lead up to 12 noon, before the new guards arrive to replace the ones currently standing by at the palace. They take a while stood motionless, so you have to be patient - but then just like that they are seen marching across the courtyard to change the guards at all four corners. You can get some good photographs at the corners, as you are allowed to get closer to the guards as they change, than you can at the place where they begin. Whether it be the Evzones of Athens at Syntagma Square, or the guards at Prague Castle in the Czech Republic - I enjoy experiencing the Changing of the Guards at different cities to experience of a free cultural tradition live. Every country is unique, and Denmark's guard change ceremony in Copenhagen, is certainly a special sight in its own right.

 

5) 'Nyhavn' and a Canal Boat Tour

My last selection for '5 of the Best... Copenhagen', is arguably the most iconic place in the city today. The much photographed Nyhavn is often seen fronting guide books to this European capital city, and that's understandably so as it is an idyllic location to explore. Translated, Nyhavn means 'New Harbour', and this historic canal was dug-out by soldiers between the years of 1671 and 1673. It is lined by colourful buildings either side, and nowadays has become a hot-spot for tourism in the city. It's only a five minute or so walk south from Amalienborg Palace, and it's lined many restaurants on the northern bank of the canal. It's also become a prime location to hop aboard a city canal boat tour, which is an enjoyable way to attain a different perspective of the city and also listen to some humerus and informative narration via the tour guide. I chose to do this on my last afternoon in Copenhagen, and it proved to be a fantastic way to wrap-up my visit. I boarded a boat from the western most point of the canal; there are a few companies that you can look at to see what they offer. The tour I took was an hour long and went east to the neighbourhood of Christianshavn - which was great because I hadn't been there before that point.

The canal tour took us right up to see the Little Mermaid from the water, whilst also heading further south to go around a very tight corner nearby Christiansborg Slot (Castle). A fun aspect of the boat tour is having to duck a little as you ride beneath some low-lying Copenhagen bridges! Wrapping up the tour back at Nyhavn - you'll certainly have learnt something new! I remember learning that Denmark is the second flattest country on earth, behind only the Netherlands, whilst also getting a good understanding of regional banter between the Swedes and Danish from the many references to their Nordic neighbours! Seeing the Danish flags en route, also meant that we were informed of the Danish flag being the oldest flag in the world that is still in use today! The tour company I booked to go with was 'Stromma' - I will provide a link below this paragraph to their website as they certainly have my recommendation! Nyhavn itself was actually home to Hans Christian Andersen for many years - staying for 20 years at No.67, whilst also residing in No.20 and No.18 for shorter spells - after he returned to Copenhagen following study in 1827. It seems fitting to conclude this article with Andersen, after starting with the famous Little Mermaid that he inspired.


*'Stromma' website for a Canal Boat Tour; I recommend the 1 hour 'Classic Canal Tour - Nyhavn':

 
I hope you've enjoyed delving into some of the best experiences of Copenhagen in this article; I really enjoyed experiencing the city in September 2024 and writing this piece has been enjoyable. There's no doubt about it though - there's a lot more to experience in the Danish capital than I saw personally in three days of sightseeing! With that said, the places that I did see left their mark on me and proved very interesting to see first hand, as they have provided me with a really good understanding of Danish culture. From the tourist hot-spots of the Little Mermaid and Nyhavn, to the royal residences of Rosenborg and Amalienborg - Copenhagen has a real blend of attractions. The splendid Marmokirken was a personal highlight, whilst the lessor known Museum of Danish Resistance was somewhere that I'm very grateful to have seen advertised on a free map (!) - as it was really educational being able to better understand Denmark's role during occupation in World War 2. Thanks for taking the time to read this article - I hope it's proved a vicarious insight into the city, and a useful overview if maybe you are planning to visit Copenhagen. "Tak!"

By Aaron Woodruff

Lessons and Joys of Travel

06/10/2024

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