5 of the Best... Jordan

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a jewel in the crown of the Middle East, and whilst this region of the world is most famous for the Nabatean ancient city of Petra, there's so much more to see and experience in this country. From Roman ruins to biblical heritage, and Bedouin hospitality to the bustling cities in the north; Jordan is a delight to explore.

I'm very fortunate to have experienced visiting Jordan twice: first back in 2019 on my first ever solo adventure, joining an 'Intrepid Travel' group tour, and then again in March 2023 - this time as the first part of a 'Holy Land' journey (including Palestine and Israel after), also with 'Intrepid'. Both trips were so very special, and I shared the journey with some wonderful fellow travellers.

The trips were led by fantastic Jordanian tour guides. First Osama Awad led the 2019 tour, before my trip four years later, was led by Issa Dais. I'm very grateful to both Osama and Issa for proudly sharing their knowledge about their country, and for teaching the history of Jordan and this region so well. They led two superb trips, which will always be memories I cherish.

I look back on my experiences in Jordan now, in order to choose five places which I think are the highlights of Jordan. I hope you enjoy reading my article: '5 of the Best... Jordan'.

1) Amman

We'll start in the bustling capital of Jordan: Amman City! Both of my journeys throughout Jordan have started in Amman, after flying into Amman Queen Alia Airport from London Heathrow, and I remember fondly my time in the city. I arrived a day early on both occasions to see some of the city, before the trip itinerary departed south on the first day; this was very much worth it. Amman has a rich history; it used to be called Philadelphia ('the City of Brotherly Love', in Greek).

Historical treasures in Amman include the Roman Nymphaeum and Amphitheatre, whilst the Ancient Citadel rising high above the city, is a highlight of exploring Amman. The Roman roots of Philadelphia are tangible today, as you explore and take a seat in the Roman Amphitheatre, or gaze upon what's left of the ruined Temple of Hercules at the Citadel.

The views from the Citadel are stunning too. Located on the highest hill in the city, Jebel Al Qala'a, you can look out over the city, and in doing so, gain an appreciation for just how hilly this place is! Also of note at the Citadel is the ruins of a Byzantine Church, the Ummayed Palace and a wonderful small Archaeological Museum, which is home to some special Jordanian historic artefacts (such as the ʿAin Ghazal Statues... believed to date back 9,000 years!).

I always remember visiting the King Abdullah I Mosque back in 2019 on a very wet day (ironic for one of the driest areas on earth!). This was the first time I ever set foot in a mosque - it was a privilege and an honour to see the beautiful decor inside. I also was lucky to see the exterior of the Abu Darwish Mosque on that day, with a very friendly taxi driver helping show me around a little more of the city in the rain - I received such warm hospitality on my first day.

The Amphitheatre I visited in 2023, and also worth noting there is the two fascinating small museums either side of the arena floor, of which explore Jordanian heritage. One is the Folklore Museum (gives an insight into Bedouin culture), on the right entering the theatre, and the Museum of Popular Traditions is on the left (showcasing differing traditional costumes). From the Amphitheatre, the climb up to the Citadel is a great memory - I remember kicking a football around with some local children en route for a few minutes (football is a universal language, no doubt!).

I didn't have time to visit the recently opened Jordan Museum - however I have read that it's an excellent museum to see. Also the Royal Automobile Museum is another draw for tourists to come and spend time in Amman City. For me personally, the capital city undoubtedly deserves its place in my '5 of the Best... Jordan'. At night it comes alive too, with Hashem Restaurant in particular famous for its falafel. Afterwards, knafeh (delicious local dessert) can be found in many places! Amman has a long history and vibrant atmosphere today, and the Ammani enjoy sharing that.

2) Wadi Rum Desert

Located in the south of Jordan, Wadi Rum Desert is a natural highlight of this epic land. Known as the 'Valley of the Moon' - spending a night or two in a desert camp is such a special experience. The sand here has a unique red colour to it, and with dramatic viewpoints, and incredible rock formations - exploring Wadi Rum in a 4x4 jeep is such a memorable thing to do.

I always particularly remember the early morning sunrises (that are definitely worth waking up early for) and the evening sunsets. The colours crested in the sky, with the red coloured sand glimmering in the changing light, is particularly picturesque. It's certainly understandable why people describe Wadi Rum as 'otherworldly' - so much so that movies such as 'Martian' was filmed there!

Such a special aspect of spending time in Wadi Rum is getting to know the Bedouin people, by staying in one of the desert camps. Their hospitality is legendary, and a cup of sweet mint tea around a camp fire under the stars, is such a privilege. Their food is wonderfully hearty and flavoursome, and they are proud of their style of cooking, whereby they cook the food in a pit beneath the sand - of which is very interesting to see how it is done.

There are certain sites in Wadi Rum that are definitely the highlights... and a few of those are: the Al-Khazali Canyon (with petroglyphs and inscriptions in the walls dating back to the Nabateans), the Um Fruth Rock Bridge (amazing geological rock formation), 'Little Bridge' (smaller than Um Fruth and easier to climb), Ain Abu Aineh​ (known as Lawrence's Spring), Cow/ Chicken Rock (example of many interesting solitary rock formations; I personally think it looks like a chicken that's been beheaded (!)... pictured below), and a huge hilltop sand dune with a rocky top (known as 'Sunset Sights', it's great fun to ascend the sand and see the stunning panoramic vistas from the top).

Also, perhaps the highlight of Wadi Rum; at the entrance to the 'Wadi Rum Protected Area', there's a viewpoint whereby you can see the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. This is the largest and most famous of the rock formations in Wadi Rum. The reason it is called this is after T.E Lawrence's book 'Seven Pillars of Wisdom; he was known as Lawrence of Arabia because of his time as a British leader during the Arab revolt against the Ottoman Empire. T.E Lawrence described Wadi Rum as "Vast, Echoing and God-like"... I quite agree! More than any other place in Jordan, when reminiscing at the end of the trip, my fellow travellers in the groups have chosen Wadi Rum as their trip highlight.

3) Petra

Announced in 2007 as one of the 'New Seven Wonders of the World' along with the likes of the Roman Colosseum and the Great Wall of China, Petra is one of the world's greatest treasures. Known as the 'Rose-Red City' for the type of rock many of the monuments are carved out of (changing colour throughout the different light periods in the day), Petra is unsurprisingly the most visited tourist attraction in Jordan. Whilst many people have heard of Petra, few know (unless they've delved into researching the place) just how huge this ancient city is! Petra is vast, with monuments spread out over today's archaeological site, waiting to be hiked to and explored.

The most famous of all the sites to see in Petra, is the Treasury. This much-photographed Al Khazneh is the first major facade visitors see during their visit, after walking down through the Siq, of which is a tall but narrow canyon that stretches 1.2km from the start to where it opens up in front of the Treasury. I believe this is the highlight of all of Petra; seeing the Treasury for the first time. There are many other incredible places to see as I'll discuss in a moment, but, the way the Treasury appears gradually as you walk towards the end of the Siq, is one of my favourite travel memories.

It's hard to drag yourself away from the Treasury, to be honest; it's easy to stand there in awe for ages. I remember taking a seat at the back of the area in front of the Treasury in 2023, after a long day hiking in Petra. I'd taken hundreds of photographs already, so I just sat there 'people watching' for a while. Seeing the joy in the faces of people being at this incredible place, taking photos to cherish, riding camels and listening to tour guides explain it all, was simply beautiful. Visiting at night for 'Petra by Night' is incredible too. It doesn't happen every night, but I was lucky to experience it this year because we were there on the right day, and I am very grateful for this.

Other than the Treasury, much of the fun of Petra personally, was heading out on the many trails on offer, to go hiking with rich rewards at the end. The High Place of Sacrifice trail is a steep ascent but so worth it when you see the stunning view out over the ancient city below. The second part of that trail is particularly memorable for the rock-cut wonders secluded from the main area of the ancient city, and the crowds! The Roman Soldier's Tomb and the Garden Triclinium, felt like bonuses to see. Other than this trail, there's also a walk to a terrific viewpoint down at the aforementioned Treasury (pictured above), which passes by the Royal Tombs on the way.

My favourite trail to hike in Petra though, is the Monastery trail. It feels long, it gets hot, it plateaus and rises again, it passes hundreds of tourists saying "you're nearly there!"... it's a walk that is rewarded though, with the largest monument in all of Petra: Al Dier (the Monastery). Best in the second half of the day when it is bathed in sunlight, the atmosphere there is what makes it so special. Everyone has that sense of achievement having climbed 850 steps to this place, or even if you took a donkey ride the journey alone builds up the anticipation. I can still taste that iced coffee now (writing this just over six months on!)... in the heat - it went down a treat!

There's so much more to see and experience in Petra, and I will go into more detail about these places and their histories in future articles, but for now I will summarise some of the other great sites to visit at Petra: the Colonnaded Street (of Roman influence, in the heart of the city's valley), the Great Temple (once 18 metres high, but damaged by an earthquake), Petra Church (home to some exquisite Byzantine floor mosaics), Lion Triclinium (well-worth a detour off from the Monastery trail), and the Djinn Blocks (easy to miss in the hurry to the Treasury, as they are in between the Visitor Centre and the Siq, but these blocks are well worth pondering as they are shrouded in mystery) are just a few of the many, many interesting sites that this UNESCO World Heritage Site beholds, and are all special in their own right; they all come together to make Petra so special.

4) The King's Highway

The King's Highway has been travelled on since at least the 8th century - and its route runs up and down the western side of the spine of Jordan. Mentioned in the Bible, this historical thoroughfare laces together fantastic historic sites, such as Crusader Castles in the likes of Shobak and Kerak, whilst further north the city of Madaba is rich in history - being home to the famous 'Madaba Map'. Madaba is home to one of the largest Christian communities in Jordan, whilst nearby Mount Nebo is known for where Moses first looked out over 'the Promised Land' west of the Jordan River ... this being the 'Holy Land' - today's Palestine and Israel ('the land of milk and honey').

In the southern half of Jordan in the region adjacent to the King's Highway, the Dana Biosphere Reserve is a place popular for hiking. I remember stopping for a photo stop during the 2019 tour here, and the valley is stunning; Jordan is known for it's deserts, but there is more greenery than one might expect (in the area to the right of their western border particularly). I haven't personally visited Wadi Mujib, but this canyon is one of Jordan's geographic attractions.

One of the Hashemite Kingdom's most famous attractions through, without a doubt, is the iconic Dead Sea. With its unique salt content... meaning people float (!), and the fact that the Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth (408 metres below sea level) - the Dead Sea is one of Jordan's most sought after places to see and experience. A short diversion off the King's Highway, bring's you down to the Dead Sea Highway. The salts and minerals have such great healing properties for the skin, and thus health tourism is a reason why some people stay for a while in one of the many resorts along the shoreline. The resorts are smart; offering day visits and extended stay options.

Technically, the Dead Sea is a lake... there's no outlet and it's filled by incoming water from the Jordan River to the north. I remember bobbing up and down for a while on our visit one afternoon earlier this year, and it's an incredible feeling of buoyancy being propped up by the water below. Somewhat unique about our visit though was how we were all asked to leave the water due to how choppy the water became in the wind! More often than not, the Dead Sea is calm and inviting, but nevertheless - I'm grateful to have experienced it in the great company of the group.

I've used the term King's Highway to encompass the above mentioned places, as they are all worthy of mention in their own right. The sites mentioned in the first paragraph - I will look to feature in some future articles. They are fascinating places with such intriguing histories, and like some of the sites in Petra I alluded too - they all deserve their own write-ups! I hope in this article it's provided a good overview for now, without me veering into the realms of writing a huge essay! It's worth noting too, that simply looking out the window whilst on the road on the King's Highway, is a joy in itself - there's varied landscapes and stunning views to behold along the way.

5) Jerash

Located in the north-west of Jordan, approximately 50km north of the capital Amman, is the Greco-Roman ruins of Ancient Jerash. Nowadays, Jerash is home to a neighbouring city too, however the ruins left behind from centuries ago, are the reason tourists flock to Jerash. Also known as 'Gerasa', these ruins rival Roman ruins at Rome itself, with so much well-preserved at Jerash to see today.

It's home to a grand Temple dedicated to Zeus (in Greek, Jupiter in Roman), a vast Hippodrome (where the likes of chariot races took place), a Nymphaeum (an elaborate water feature), a long Colonnaded Street and Oval Plaza (where shopping and trade took place), as well as not one - but two theatres (the entertainment hub of Ancient Rome!). There's so many more ruins at Jerash, and all these well preserved historical remains are set amongst a lush green valley today - with many wildflowers blooming at springtime particularly. You really feel transported back in time!

Three of my particular favourite places in Jerash are the South Theatre, the Temple of Artemis and Hadrian's Arch. The South Theatre is so atmospheric as often you will be greeted on your visit by joyous music from the Jordanian Scottish Bagpipe Band. Sat in one of the back rows of this theatre, you have a grand lookout over Ancient Jerash; the music only adds to the sensory overload of imagining what this place would have been like in its prime (between 200 and 400 AD).

The Temple of Artemis (the daughter of Zeus) is today a wonderful temple to walk to and gaze up at the remaining pillars. You can imagine how grand this would have looked in its all its glory as a Roman Colony, and also be thankful that we have what's left nowadays to paint that picture still. Despite not ever being fully completed, the Propylaeum part of the sanctuary was finished in the year150 AD, under Emperor Antonius Pius' custodianship. Artemis was the patron goddess of the ancient city - this building thus holds a very special place in the heart of Ancient Jerash.

On entering and exiting the archaeological site of Jerash, you pass through Hadrian's Arch, of which more than any other monument there today - signifies the pomposity of the Roman Empire at its peak. Decoratively built with Greek Corinthian columns on the façade, it's 11 metres high with three archways, and was one of many arches built by the Emperor Hadrian around the Roman Empire. This, along with the other remnants of a fascinating historic era, all make Jerash a top place to visit in Jordan. Petra's unbeatable really... but Jerash is a close second in my books!

By Aaron Woodruff

Lessons and Joys of Travel

19/11/2023