Just over 80 kilometres inland east from the city of Agadir on the Atlantic Ocean, is a historic walled city nicknamed 'Little Marrakech' - thanks to its red walls alike the famous 'Red City'. The place we are talking about here, is approximately 200 minutes of driving south from Marrakech, and a place whose story dates back centuries to when it was the capital of Morocco for a period of time in the 16th century. This is Taroudant - a real treasure of Africa, and more specifically, the Souss-Massa region of Morocco.
Somewhat off the main tourist trail, but understandably featuring more and more on western coast Morocco tour itineraries thanks to its historic richness, Taroudant is definitely somewhere worth featuring on a trip around this part of Morocco. On entering through the historic gates of Taroudant - it's like a time warp into centuries past. It's far less commercialised than the aforementioned Marrakech to the north and nearby Agadir to the west; the streets and souks are quieter and more authentic in terms of how these shops are predominantly there to serve to local Moroccans - as opposed to many being set up for tourists in the bigger cities. Spending time in Taroudant to walk the streets there, richly rewards those who travel to see it. It's got a unique charm within the walls.
In terms of its time as the capital of Morocco, Taroudant preceded the larger city of Marrakech. As alluded to, it wasn't until the 16th century, under the Saadian Dynasty, that Taroudant rose to such prominence - however throughout the many centuries before, alike all of Morocco, it changed a lot under the influence of different Moroccan rulers. An example of how the different dynasties shaped the Taroudant we see today, is that it was under occupation from the Almoravids in the 11th century, whilst the city walls that the city is famous for, were built in the early 16th century, under the same rulership as when it was the capital city: the Saadians. The city walls enclose what's known as the 'Old Medina' within a large area of approximately two kilometres squared.
From my recent visit, we were told how these historic walls, which stretch over eight kilometres, were actually damaged in areas as a result of the September 2023 earthquake. This was a poignant reminder that history is always evolving; it's reason to give thanks for the historic treasures that remain around the world - and to be thankful here, that the walls largely survived awful earthquake damage. The walkway leading around the city wall is currently closed though for safety reasons following the natural disaster, but the 19 corner bastions and 130 towers which feature at points around the wall, are still a sight to admire from ground level. The walls are believed to be the largest archaeological walls in Africa, and their construction was built for the military purpose of defending the city from tribes of the time, and grand Portuguese naval power.
In terms of how Taroudant has been sheltered from 'mass tourism', it's become somewhere that hasn't been influenced as strongly by western culture or international ideals, therefore it's a much more conservative city than Marrakech today. This is a beautiful opportunity to see the traditions of Moroccan society, especially within the old city walls. There's madrasas and Quranic schools in Taroudant, whilst you won't see Starbucks or McDonald's like in Marrakech! Alike how it's known as 'Little Marrakech', Taroudant is also known as 'the Grandmother of Marrakech' - a metaphor for how its ancient roots watch over the current bustling and more energetic city of Marrakech today.
The population of Taroudant is still sizeable: an excess of 80,000 people call Taroudant home - and for them, the heart of life is very much in the market (the 'Berber' market is known as Jnane Jama). The Berbers (or Amazigh people) are the traditional inhabitants of large parts of Morocco, and now whilst many of the Berber people have embraced Islam which came with the Arabs - they still have their own unique identity and traditions (including their own flag and Berber dialect). I can remember from a walk through the market a real array of different goods available to buy; the likes of fruits and vegetables, meats and cheeses, leather goods, carpets and rugs, jewellery, artwork, and lots of other local handicrafts - were all displayed for locals and over time also, there are places starting to target the tourist trade as more tourists visit this historic city's souks. Of particular note, was the incredible terracotta that's displayed in the workshops of Taroudant... Wonderfully designed pieces included tagine pots, water vessels, storage units and decorative terracotta works - all of which are fine examples of tremendously skilled crafts that are so widely used.
One interesting landmark which has become iconic to Taroudant, is a tea pot monument, which is located near to Bab El Kasbah (a gate on the eastern side of the city). Across Morocco, the sharing of tea is a sign of warm hospitality, and this sculpture featuring the city's name, 'Taroudant', across the base of the tea pot - is considered a symbol for how visitors are welcome. It's a very nice sculpture and I love the symbolism of it - tea is a ritual in Morocco and it is used as a way to get to know new friends with good conversation, whilst sharing a cup of tea together!
I hope you've enjoyed this insight into Taroudant; from the few hours or so that I was lucky enough to experience this city in April 2024 - it left a distinct mark on me as somewhere with a rich history and culture that's worth celebrating. With a history that includes a period as the Moroccan capital, and city walls that stand as a testament to its significance over time, Taroudant has a legacy that forms an integral part of the story of Morocco. The walls today are a sight to behold, whilst the timeless souks are a portal into age old traditions and trade that has helped shaped the Taroudant we see today. Whether adding Taroudant to a stop on a Morocco road trip, or looking for somewhere to perhaps linger longer - I believe Taroudant is somewhere that will leave its mark on you too - it's culturally fascinating and it welcomes respectful tourists that are keen to engage with its story.
By Aaron Woodruff
30/04/2024
Lessons and Joys of Travel in partnership with Indigo Expedition*
*I'm proud to have agreed to a role as a Travel Content Specialist for Indigo Expedition. This fantastic travel company was founded by Said Elhansali, who is a Moroccan-born passionate tour-guide who founded Indigo Expedition to welcome people to Morocco. For any trips you may be keen on planning in Morocco, please check-out: https://indigoexpedition.com . There are lots of trips designed on the website available to book, whilst you can tailor your own itineraries to shape your own unique adventure by contacting the team. Happy travels all - welcome to Morocco!
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