Madeira: a Portuguese Gem

Recently I was lucky enough to experience a cruise for the very first time - and whilst it focused on the Canary Islands - the ship headed north for a day on shore in Madeira... it proved to be a highlight of the trip! In this piece I'd love to share why Madeira was so enjoyable and why it stood out personally as such a special place to experience.

Trip Background

This trip was in January 2023, of which was a fly-cruise to and from Bristol and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, featuring a 7 night stay on a TUI Marella Cruise Ship. This was something completely new to me! I was looking forward to gaining an insight into this different style of travel, after having watched many programs about cruising before. From what I had read and researched about, the itinerary that myself and a mate of mine was on, was one that appealed to before booking because it allowed plenty of time of shore to experience the different destinations.

Out of the eight days of the trip - seven of them were on shore which meant that there was lots of opportunity to see plenty of sights whilst experiencing the Canary Islands and Madeira. After a great first few days in Gran Canaria and Tenerife initially, our third day saw the morning spent in the idyllic La Gomera, before our ship spent the afternoon and night travelling north to enable us to spend a day in Madeira next. To be perfectly honest I hadn't done much research on Madeira before this trip - I had Canary Island guide books but not one on Madeira! It was probably why this island felt so special and was my favourite day of the trip - it really exceeded my expectations. I think there's a few other aspects why...

Firstly I had no idea just how mountainous and green Madeira was. Despite reading this before, it's not until the coach winds through the steep terrain that you really appreciate how remarkably engineered the settlements are perched on steep hills - particularly around the port city of Funchal for example. Secondly, I always cherish a trip to the Portuguese capital Lisbon with my Mother back in 2019. We spent four nights there and loved it. Lisbon doesn't necessarily get enough attention as European cities such as Paris and Rome - but to me it is one of my favourite places I have been to.

Portugal has a sea-faring history that is fascinating, something less spoken about at school than the likes of the Roman Empire, the World Wars or British history. Because of this, learning about a history that is largely completely new to me, was enjoyable. And thirdly before I talk about some of my favourite aspects of Madeira, another reason for Madeira being a highlight of this cruise, was because it was the unique day of the trip. Six of the other days were spent on Spanish islands (which were still amazing no doubt!), so this was an opportunity to get a flavour of Portugal - and it was a day of travel that I will cherish!

So now... 5 Reasons I loved Madeira!

1) The Landscape

It sounds very cliche to start by just saying 'the landscape' - however it really is the aspect that I remember so much from this island. In the morning, we had booked an excursion before arriving on the cruise for this day, of which was called 'Panoramic Madeira'. It took us up until lunchtime, enabling the afternoon to see the port city and island capital, Funchal, before having to return by 8pm for the sail away from this North Atlantic Island.

The coach trip was a fantastic overview of the island and the tour guide narrated the journey with lots of interesting information about the geography, history and culture of the island, and Portugal as a whole. Despite being an autonomous region with its own flag, Madeira is Portuguese, but with a landscape of stark contrast to the mainland on the Iberian Peninsula with Spain! Poiso Pass rises 4,308 feet above sea level - so we certainly ascended some way from the cruise port back down in Funchal!

We passed huge forests on mountainous roads, small communities based up in the hills, streams trickling down from the mountains, and then as we descended settlements around the coast and in places there's very dramatic and rocky coastline. The best viewpoint that we stopped at was near Porto da Cruz along the north coast, whereby Penha d'Aguia (Eagle's Rock, pictured above) towers 1,800 feet above, and is a landmark of the landscape.

2) The Pavements

It's iconic in Portugal and a work of art to admire - the pavements of Madeira are a joy to see. Made alike a mosaic but to a large scale, and known as 'calcada portuguesa'; the Portuguese cobblestone pavements are a tradition in pedestrian areas of Portugal. I remember them fondly from visiting the capital city of Lisbon, so seeing them again in Madeira really was a "Wow - I'm in Portugal!" moment.

As soon as we set off on foot in Funchal from the port we saw the harbour-front walkway, and it was an artwork, without a doubt. Earlier in the day at a stop in the former sleepy village of Machico, there was amazing pavements there too. It's a really good focal point for photographs which the different designs (zig-zags, striaghtlines and curves for example) really defining the photos as Portuguese! They are also remarkably well-maintained considering it is a rather time consuming way of paving streets - very admirable indeed!

3) The Churches

Madeira is a predominantly Catholic island, and wherever I travel I always relish the opportunity to visit places of worship and see how different people around the world practice their religion. Religion is very much linked to the history of places, and by visiting churches on Madeira I was able to appreciate how many people see this as their place to worship and prayer. The insides were very decorative and calming.

I was able to see a humble tiny chapel in the Ribeiro Frio area up in the hills, then a splendid church in Machico (which is 17km north of Funchal), before entering the Church of Our Lady of the Mount in Monte (pictured above). High above the main city of Funchal, Monte is a civil parish of Funchal, with amazing views too. Dating back to 1470 a chapel stood there at Monte. Interestingly too, the present day church at Monte features memorials to Emperor Charles I of Austria. He was laid to rest in this church after he died in exile on this island.

In Funchal in the late afternoon, after descending from Monte, I saw the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in the heart of the city (Sé civil parish) with a congregation gathered and music playing. Stumbling across this, and being in the right place at the right time as it were, are moments that I cherish when travelling. Just hovering by the door for a minute or two is such a great glimpse into local culture and peace.

4) The Toboggan

After taking a bus up to Monte and visiting the church there, just below the steps leading up to the church is a mode of transport iconic to Madeira: the 'Carro de Cesto'! Effectively a sled or toboggan ride, the 'Carreiros do Monte' (hill racers!) whisk predominantly tourists nowadays (!) down a two kilometre stretch and at times can reach up to 30mph!

Controlled by two sled drivers, it's very safe and has been something that's happened here since the first half of the 19th century. The wicker basket sled journey took about 10 minutes or so, and there was amazing views out over Funchal until stopping at the Livramento suberb. From there it was an enjoyable walk down the rest of the hill into the city.

It did cost a bit to do however by spending money to experience this, we, alike other tourists, were able to help keep that tradition alive - and have a good laugh whilst doing so! The drivers have rubber-soled shoes specially designed to brake so around the bends they are very able to control the speed before letting some speed build up down the straights!

5) Pasteis de Nata

Once back in the centre of Funchal in the early evening - the mission was to find Portuguese custard tarts... the hunt for the iconic 'pasteis de nata' had begun! It was a must-do for sure to round-off a day spent in Portugal. We found some of the golden treats sat in a window display, so the quest was complete! It was a delicious snack and was just enough to tide us over until having food on the ship for the day's evening meal.

I must be honest, it isn't usually something that I have for a treat at home - but 'when in Rome' as they say... and the Portuguese certainly do know how to make the best egg custard tarts! It was a privilege to experience such a wonderful time in Madeira, and we met many welcoming local people on the day spent there too.

I've tried to summarise a day in Madeira with the above 'Top 5' aspects that I remember from the island, however, there are three more interesting points I think I have to mention...

Firstly... it's the weather! One thing that we learnt about in the morning tour was that because of its relatively isolated location as an island along with it's varying degree of mountain areas in comparison to sea level; Madeira has many microclimates. We certainly saw the changeable weather very much in a day- with it being cold and wet in the mountains but sunny and bright mostly in Funchal, along with some strong winds at times in the day. The rainbow making an appearance showed how the sunshine and showers are both frequent on this island - of which contribute to how green, humid and fertile Madeira is!

Secondly, you cannot visit Funchal in particular, walk along the promenade from the cruise ship, and not notice the CR7 Museum ! It is dedicated to the football star who grew up on this Portuguese island, after being born in Funchal. Undoubtedly he's one of the sports footballing legends so it was interesting seeing tourists gather outside the museum on a plaza in his name. With more time on Madeira, we'd have visited the museum. The same can be said for the third of the points I wanted to mention - and that's the famous gardens of Madeira. The Botanical Gardens are stunning from what I've read and saw pictures of, and they are located high up in the Monte area, overlooking the port.

Perhaps the above few are reasons to return to Madeira some day? Whether I do or not though I am thankful for a fantastic day on the island, and was quite content by the time the ship sailed away that evening, as we'd seen and learnt so much in a day.

'Obrigado, Madeira!'

Thanks for reading and I hope you've enjoyed this article.

Aaron Woodruff

Lessons & Joys of Travel