What is the 'Heart of Morocco'? There's a case to be made for the ancient labyrinth city of Fez, or the beautifully photogenic 'blue city' of Chefchaouen, or of course the modern-day capital of Rabat... However my trip in November 2022 further south of the country felt like it really was the beating heart of this fascinating country, and therefore justifiably deserves the reputation as...
the 'Heart of Morocco'.
In this article I explain why... *Before I begin, I'd like to express my wholehearted thanks to Indigo Expedition and their CEO Said Elhansali, who escorted me on an amazing 'Deserts and Waterfalls' trip in Morocco's heart.
Arriving in the bustling city of Marrakesh, of which was one of the four imperial cities of Morocco (former capitals, along with Fez, Meknes and Rabat), you sense that you really are on the cusp of so many different adventures. It's fantastic airport sees travellers of all sorts coming and going.
You have city-break tourists coming for delve into the fascinating cultural attractions in Marrakesh and of course headed for the colourful souks. You have tourists beginning and finishing group tours which have been in the north of the country, visiting incredible cities alike the aforementioned imperial cities, along with other highlights like Casablanca and Tangier. And of course you have some headed west to the coast for a laid back trip, or in contrast some are bracing themselves for hiking Mount Toubkal - Morocco's highest peak.
I've been lucky to experience the north of Morocco on an Intrepid trip back in 2019, of which was most enjoyable. I loved seeing Fez particularly - its streets feel like you are being transported back centuries, whilst Casablanca's Hassan II Mosque is one of the most beautiful religious buildings I have ever visited (one of few mosques in Morocco where tourists can enter too). I also loved Tangier - you really feel on the cusp of Europe there, especially at Cape Spartel.
However, as alluded to at the top of this article, I want to share my love for the 'Heart of Morocco' today. I discovered this on the 'Deserts and Waterfalls' Indigo Expedition trip. And that title is it in a nutshell, that's why it's the heart of this country! Morocco is a land of contrasts, and in the region to the east and south of Marrakesh, lies stunning mountain ranges, majestic sand dunes, and amazing waterfalls. It's a mix that gives you an insight into Berber heritage as well - of whom's hospitality is superb. I am eager to share my experiences with you all...
Here's six of the highlights from my trip and why I think they are the 'Heart of Morocco':
1) THE HIGH AND ANTI ATLAS MOUNTAINS
On the tour we spent many hours driving, however when that is spent navigating the incredible hills of the High and Anti Atlas Mountains - it is the complete opposite to being tedious! The views are remarkable, and driving through the region, from Marrakesh to Ourzazate on the first full day of my trip for example- gave a remarkable geographical overview of this region. The roads twist and turn, and you soon realise any presumptions that Morocco is just cities and desert- are soon banished!
2) AIT BENHADDOU KSAR
A key stop on the caravan routes of yesteryear, Ait Benhaddou is understandably one of Morocco's most popular destinations. It's on route to the desert from Marrakesh, but it's green like oasis at its foot, amongst the barren surrounding land, really transport you to a time from yesteryear. You could imagine those traders years ago, literally exhausted from being exposed to the elements - being so relieved to have reached Ait Benhaddou to rest. It's an example of Moroccan cultural ties throughout North Africa through the ages.
3) THE DRAA VALLEY
As the mountains fade into distant memories for the time being, the Draa Valley appears again like somewhat of an oasis. I have great admiration for the irrigation used by the Moroccan's that cleverly utilise the water run off from the mountains to enable a plentiful production of goods - particularly dates for example. Morocco exports many dates and they are a great source of nutrition for people in Morocco. The views of date plantations are quite a sight, and stopping to admire them was very special. The greenery again, shocked my preconceptions of this region!
4) THE SAHARA DESERT
Many tourists presume the Sahara is just a short day trip away from Marrakesh, however this is not the case at all. It wasn't until Tuesday afternoon (two days with lots of driving!) that we arrived in the dunes. It must be said, they are absolutely worth visiting but you need to give yourself time to not rush the other stops along the way. Hence allocating 5 days for the 'Deserts and Waterfalls' trip, proved perfect. Riding a camel here and watching the sunset and sunrise again the next day was a beautiful experience, as was the evening of Berber hospitality.
5) TOUDRA GORGES
Near to Tinghir is the Toudra Gorge and this is again a place that shows off Morocco's great variety of geographical splendours. The gorges tower high either side, and now they attract photographers, rock-climbers and walkers. They are at the foot of the mountains again and yet not too far from another green valley by Tinghir. It feels like the gateway from the south eastern desert back into the stunning hills and the High Atlas Mountains. This is a stark contrast to the northern cities of Morocco - it's wondrous landscape is so diverse!
6) THE OUZOUD WATERFALLS
On the way back to Marrakesh, the 'Deserts and Waterfalls' trip culminates here, at the majestic Ouzoud Waterfalls. The highlights just get better and better. After day one, Ait Benhaddou was the highlight, then after day three, it was the Sahara. However on day five, Ouzoud Waterfalls out did them all. If this region is the 'Heart of Morocco'... then Ouzoud is the beating heart! Water is obviously so key to civilisation, and Ouzoud is a paradise waiting to be explored. There's great walks to be had at the falls whereby the water empties into the El-Abid Rivers.
Now those six are just my favourite highlights from a remarkable 'Deserts and Waterfalls' trip in Morocco, and there is more fascinating experiences along the way. However, I believe that the contrasts of water and sand, towering mountains to valley plateaus, and lush plantations to arid flatlands- all epitomise the 'Heart of Morocco'. Civilisation flourished in this remarkable region of the world, and Marrakesh is the gateway to it all. I love Morocco, including the north of course, I had a wonderful trip there in 2019, but the south took my breath away three years after I first visited this country, and I left in complete agreement with my friend and tour-guide Said's belief that he shared with me... that this region truly is the 'Heart of Morocco'!
*Shukran Said Elhansali, and your company Indigo Expedition for an unforgettable trip to remember!
By Aaron Woodruff, 24/11/2022
So exciting that you are starting your first blog! I really enjoyed your article about Morocco. My personal highlight were the Berberi Monkeys in the Atlas Mountains :) I could have spend hours just watching and observing them :)
Looking forward to read more about your travels :)