Welcome to 'Romania in a Dozen'! In this article, I've selected 12 images from across a trio of days sightseeing in this Balkan country, in order to showcase its rich cultural heritage. During three days exploring there at the start of November, I planned an afternoon on arrival in Bucharest, before day-tripping east to Constanța and north into Transylvania on the next two days, prior to flying home the following morning. These were three very different days, with the capital Bucharest a stark contrast to Constanța on the shores of the Black Sea, and of course the Transylvania region amongst the Carpathian Mountains. I'll describe these 12 photographs in the chronological order in which they were taken, looking to provide an insight into the fascinating country of Romania. Let's start in Bucharest... I hope it's an interesting and enjoyable read!
We begin with a grand equestrian statue at University Square in the Romanian capital. This is the place considered 'kilometre zero' regarding the country's national road network, and it is also home to the statue featured here, which depicts one of Romania's most prominent national heroes of history. Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave) is known as the man who unified Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldavia into one Romanian entity. These three historic provinces joining together, is why this monument is a tribute to 'Michael the Brave the Unifier'. This contributed hugely to today's Romania, at 238,397 square kilometres, being the largest of the Balkan countries.
Michael lived for 42 years at the end of the 16th century, however this statue wasn't established until the late 19th century. It was controversial at the time of Ottoman rule over this region because of how Michael the Brave symbolizes Romanian independence, however today it undoubtedly stands proud as a testament to a leader who did so much in forming the Romanian national identity. I remember seeing photographing this statue on my first afternoon in Romania, having just walked past many opulent facades en route south from the train station. It's a grand equestrian statue that was built by French sculptor Albert Ernest Carrier Belleuse. which continues to overlook a grand boulevard today, right amongst the buzz of the city day-to-day life in Bucharest.
Next we walk further south in Bucharest to the 'Bulevardul Unirii', which is the huge street stretching east from the monumental Palace of Parliament. This part of the city feels somewhat of a time-warp back into the Communist era in Romania's history. The huge Romanian Parliament is the heaviest administrative building in the world - it looks ginormous even when looking at it from afar. The photo featured first here though, features the beautiful autumnal colours which line much of the streets here at this time of year. The greens and oranges add some much welcome colour to this neighbourhood particularly, considering the drab grey overcast weather conditions and plain exteriors of the buildings there. The fountains too, which are in the centre of the multi-laned boulevard, add a calming water acoustic as you walk along these grand city pavements.
After walking along the wide tree lined pavements leading to the Parliament building, the gargantuan (mostly empty!) car park, left you in no doubt that this region's city planning dates from Communist-era. The 'Palatul Parlamentului' is the seat of Romanian Parliament today, however as alluded to regarding how it emerged - is a result of an unfavourable period of this region's history. It was the dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu who ordered this egotistical palace to be built - the whole area around this building is designed to make the mere mortal realise there is only one person in charge! As you stand and look 360 degrees around you in the car park, you are surrounded by the recognisably Communist architectural style - so it's a fascinating insight into this era of history.
During a swathe of anti-communist sentiment in the region, the people of Romania finally took back control of their nation in the late 1980s. Ceaușescu was overthrown and executed during a revolution in December 1989 - in turn bringing to a close 22 years as their leader. The photo featured here shows the huge scale of this palace - dwarfing a tour bus driving past on the large street in the foreground. I'm glad I went to experience the atmosphere of this part of the city - Romania has come a long way since this period of history. Whilst unfortunately old parts of the city were destroyed for Ceaușescu to order the construction of this palace and boulevard, the place I headed to next was the Old Town that's remained in tact - it is a drastic contrast for sure!
Featured in this next picture, is the majestic interior artwork of the dome of Stavropoleos Church. Jesus Christ looks down as if to welcome those who gather in this sacred space; the four circles that surround Christ create a ripple effect as you look towards the heavens. As dusk started to fall, I managed to get here just in time to spend the last ten minutes of the day's opening hours, inside the church. I sat there for a while and gazed up at the incredible decor and appreciated the calmness of the space there. This is not a large church by any means, but the wonderful dome makes the central area feel very spacious. It's an Eastern Orthodox Church that forms a part of Stavropoleos Monastery - the church itself dates back three hundred years to 1724. Once I left on closing time, I donated and took a candle to light and place in a space designated outside, alongside the richly decorative and ornate courtyard of the Stavropoleos Monastery. This was definitely my personal highlight of an evening spent wandering some of the streets in the Old Town of Bucharest.
Going into this second third of these photographs from Romania, we head to the coastal city of Constanța. I really enjoyed exploring this port city's Old Town on a day-trip by train from Bucharest. There's just something about railway journeys that feels like a real adventure! Strategically important throughout history as a port city on the mighty Black Sea - Constanța has been influenced by ancient Greece and Rome, and the Ottoman Empire and Soviet Union, to name a few.
Today it's Romania's most prominent city on the east coast, with the compact Old Town peninsula home to its best historical sights. Once I'd arrived in Constanța after a two and a half hour long early morning train, I walked about 45 minutes to reach the historic Old Town. The next two pictures selected here, feature the interior décor of two of this city's most special historic religious buildings.
The first photograph is looking skyward to the interior of the Great Mosque of Constanța's grand dome. This is the seat of the Romanian Mufti, who is head of the 55,000 approximate Muslim population in Romania. Of course, just south along the Black Sea is Istanbul, so there's a strong Islamic influence here. Climbing the minaret is an experience that's rewarded with expansive views across the city, and it provided a brilliant perspective of the mosque's dome. The mosque is also known as the 'Carol Mosque' - named as such after King Carol. He ensured this place of worship was constructed and opened in 1913 so that the Muslim populous of Romania had a fitting place for their prayers; as a leader Carol I encouraged a peaceful co-existence between faiths.
Just a short walk down the street from the mosque, is the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral - home to one of the most beautiful interior decors I've seen anywhere! The walls were lavishly decorated from top to bottom, whilst elegant arches and a carpeted interior felt somewhat alike Turkish mosques in style - once more reminding me of the many similarities around the world between faiths. The photograph looking here is the third photo in the row in this article of ceiling decoration...
I spent so much time looking up in the incredible buildings visited so far! This splendid cathedral is the seat of the Romanian Orthodox Archbishop of Tomis; Tomis is the ancient name of Constanța when it was founded as a Greek city back in the 6th century BCE. Outside the cathedral, there are excavations of old ruins on open display - I wonder just what other old treasures, dating back to ancient Tomis, may be beneath today's Constanța?
Following the route from Ovid Square, past the mosque and cathedral respectfully, I was soon face to face with the deep blue Black Sea. Walking along shoreline brought me to the famous casino, which was undergoing renovations as part of a much anticipated project by the locals to restore the crumbling exterior to its former glory. The third photo I've chosen to include in this dozen, is simply one of the Black Sea itself. Standing before this vast body of water was something I really hoped to do - the closest I had previously come to seeing it was in Istanbul with its huge Bosphorus Strait (which connects the Black Sea in the north, to the Sea of Marmara and the vast Mediterranean Sea in the south). Looking out across the Black Sea, it evokes thoughts of all the historic places which border this huge body of water. It connects the continents of Europe and Asia, and along with Romania itself, the six other countries which the Black Sea borders are: Bulgaria, Moldova, Ukraine, Russia, Georgia and the Republic of Türkiye. It's quite the crossroads of where 'East meets West'!
The last of the four photographs from my day in Constanța I've selected, is the statue of Romulus and Remus with the Capitoline Wolf (known as the 'Lupa Capitolina'). Spending the afternoon wandering more of the Old Town - I was aided by the superb maps that are dotted around this part of the city, which signpost points of interest very well. One of those places worth seeing, was this statue of the ancient founders of Rome. I saw a statue of this also in Bucharest the day before, and likewise the meaning of this statue in Constanța, is commemorating the same thing: paying homage to Romania's Latin heritage. Romania was of course part of the mighty Roman Empire, and this Capitoline Wolf of Tomis is testament to how today's Constanța's roots are entrenched in the ancient world. Tomis dates from the time the likes of ancient Rome, Athens and Constantinople.
The final day sightseeing in Romania was a coach trip into the Carpathian Mountains and famous Transylvanian region. The first stop of the day was the town of Sinaia, of which is nestled in the county of Prahova, to the north of Bucharest. This idyllic mountainous place is home to the famous Peleș Castle - one of Romania's most iconic landmarks. Peleș Castle holds a special place in the hearts of the Romanian people; it was built by King Carol I of Romania in 1883 - the year of his inauguration. King Carol is featured in this next photograph - looking out over the grand Carpathian Mountains from his most favourite royal retreat. Following the triumph over the Ottoman Empire in the late 19th century, Carol became the first King of Romania; at the end of his lifetime, Carol passed away at Peleș. This was a fitting place for Carol to pass as it was very dear to his heart.
Carol's legacy as the country's first monarch is immortalised in stone with some statues, with this one at Peleș being one of the most famous due to the number of visitors here! Carol's reign oversaw the catalyst of the renaissance of Romanian national identity - with the modern day country of Romania ultimately being formed following strong influence from stronger regional powers.
Carol was renowned for his tolerance of the different faiths that made up the country's population - for example, the aforementioned Great Mosque in the city of Constanța on the Black Sea coastline, was commissioned by King Carol I in order to provide a place of worship for the Muslims who lived there. The most famous building of his reign though, is of course Peleș Castle. Decorated predominantly in a German style, it's located in the picturesque 'Southern Carpathian' Mountains.
Approximately 50% of the Carpathian Mountains are located in Romania, and it was a pleasure to see some incredible views along the way as the coach drove on to Brașov for our next stop. As we left Sinaia, we passed a monastery which our guide told us is named after the fabled Mount Sinai in Egypt. We had a few hours free time to explore once in Brașov, and the photo I chose from here is of the Black Church rising tall with it's colourful clock face. Visiting this place of worship was reminiscent to my memories of visiting Prague, because of the references there to Jan Hus, who was very influential in reformation of the church across Bohemia. Nearby to this church is the main square of Brașov, of which is noticeably German in style. Following lunch and boarding the coach, it was just over half an hour to reach Bran for the famous Bran Castle, a.k.a... 'Dracula's Castle'!
Once in Bran, you pass through a souk like area full of souvenir stalls pedalling Dracula merchandise on the way up to the castle! The next photo I've chosen is the view looking up towards the castle, taken on the walk up the ramp as you head towards the entrance of the building. Despite dating back to the 13th century with the Teutonic Knights, this castle is so famous of course, thanks to the associations and links with the Bram Stoker novel-turned-film 'Dracula'! The castle does rise somewhat mystically from the forest and settlements below, and it's interesting wandering the rooms to learn about the long history here. It's an atmospheric place - especially so with the floorboards creek throughout the walk around! After buying a book about Bran Castle in the souvenir shop, it was time to head back for the 2 hour 45 minute coach journey to Bucharest.
The final photograph in 'Romania in a Dozen' was taken once back in Bucharest from the Transylvanian day trip. Visible through this building featured - is the influence from the Soviet Union to the east. The Saint Nicholas Russian Church caught my eye on the first day here, but seeing this example of Russian architecture lit-up so well on my last evening in Romania, was so special to witness. Dating back to its construction in 1905 during the time of the Kingdom of Romania, it was funded by Tsar Nicholas II to provide the Russians living there a place to pray. At the cost of some 600,000 gold roubles, the six stunning gold onion domes, are iconically Russian in style.
I've always been fascinated by Russian culture and heritage after studying it during A-Level History at college, so seeing this piece of history was a real bonus during my time in Romania. I am well aware that at present, the political scenario is complicated due to the conflict in Eastern Europe. With that said, Russia's role in the history of the world will always be one that's inspired cultural achievements. Just like how I enjoyed seeing the Ottoman influence in Constanța or the German influence in Brașov - seeing this Russian jewel in Bucharest was a delight. That's part and parcel of exploring a country - enjoying the mix of cultures that have shaped the modern nations we see before us today. Amongst the marks left from far beyond, Romania is proud of its national identity.
I hope you've enjoyed this journey through Romania in 12 of my favourite photos taken there. My goal travelling to this country with just three days to sightsee, was to see as many different parts of the country as possible in order to gain an understanding of this Balkan nation. Before booking Romania, I knew little about Romania, to be honest. I had heard of Dracula and knew the capital was Bucharest, but I hadn't heard of Michael the Brave, I hadn't heard of Carol I, and I hadn't heard of Nicolae Ceaușescu... To name a few key figures of Romania's history that I was not aware of! Now, I feel like I've really attained an understanding of some of the key eras of history that have shaped Romania. I am very grateful to have seen some of the countries best sights - from the Carpathian Mountains in Transylvania to lesser known Constanța on the Black Sea coast - the contrasts they behold come together to form mesmerising Romania. I hope 'Romania in a Dozen' has been an enjoyable vicarious journey through this fascinating country, and in turn, can act as a useful rough guide if you are planning a visit there too. Thanks very much for reading this article; as they say in Romania to say thank you... "Mulțumesc"!
By Aaron Woodruff
Lessons & Joys of Travel
28/11/2024
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